Demi-Couture Trumps Ready-To-Wear on the Runway

There's a new section of the fashion industry on the rise: demi-couture — a high-end portion of ready-to-wear, though not necessarily handmade in any way. Designers are reporting a drastic rise in demand for the garments, which can range anywhere from a few thousand dollars to $14,000 — like a recent Mary Katrantzou dress — and beyond. Azzedine Alaia went as far as having a show featuring only the segments, and then selling the garments "as is" after the show  ... with lots of success. Unlike couture, things like fittings, atelier channels, etc. aren't part of the demi-couture process. Instead, pieces are sold in ready-to-wear fashion: off the rack through retailers or the brands themselves.

The new trend is a little baffling and, sometimes, a financial struggle for designers who have to make sure there's a market for these pieces that, as Jason Wu recently said, "just can't be done for cheaper." It's hard to say whether or not demi-couture really can't be done cheaper, but it's hard to deny that the trend is quickly on the rise.

Text Corinna Fabre
Source Fashionologie

London Calling

With New York Fashion Week delivering looks that looked like J.Crew got a hold of some really expensive muted toned fabric, I was hoping that London’s Fall Fashion Week, though always a bit drab, would at least produce a few collections that were smart, inspired, and funky. While there was an overabundance of dark, ill-fitting clothes that were somewhat depression inducing (Christopher Kane, are you listening?) there were several collections that were bright spots.

Probably the best overall was Erdem. Erdem Moralioglu’s detailing and use of color on his dresses was exquisite (lace and print that works on the same garment? Genius). Another very good collection was Paul Smith Women—it paired frumpy sweaters with tailored pieces to create a look that was very English country-side meets West End. Also, Mary Kantranzou debut line was a little over stimulating—some of her designs looked more like Magic Eye puzzles than dress patterns—but she deserves credit for starting a clothing line on such a bold note in this economic climate.

It was definitely an improvement over New York Fashion week simply because the London designers didn't panic and think, "Shit, I have to be commercial now and make boring clothes people will buy!" Because hey, even if we're broke, we definitely don't want to look it.