A Sweet Send Off for Jil Sander’s Raf Simons

Is there any greater reward than a standing ovation led by Anna Wintour? That’s how the fashion world bade farewell (for now) to Jil Sander’s creative director Raf Simons at his final runway show this past Saturday in Milan. The hearty applause was well deserved, as Simons ended his six-and-a-half-year stint at the label with a gorgeous, clean collection that maintained Jil Sander’s signature minimalist feel with a soft, feminine flair. Starting out with a pastel palette which slowly made room for splashes of red, metallic silver, and glossy black, the designer showed voluminous wool coats paired with body-conscious, lingerie-like dresses (not to mention fabulous separates and jumpsuits). Though expertly understated, the line certainly was not without a wow factor, from clever front cutouts to a stunning structured black dress quite possibly made from the same material as the rubber suit in American Horror Story.

The 44-year-old Belgian designer’s departure comes after an announcement that founder Jil Sander will return as the creative director of her eponymous line on Monday. As excited as we are to see Sander back at the helm, Simons's brilliant showing on Saturday proved that he’ll be greatly missed. But there is some good news. Rumors are buzzing that Sander’s surprise move makes it all the more likely that Simons will take the reins at Dior, since the fashion house infamously ousted John Galliano after his controversial comments. One thing’s for sure: Wherever Raf Simons goes, the fashion world will follow.

Text Kara Solarz
Image Fashionista.com

It’s In the Bag

Trendsetter Raf Simons has done it again. The head designer for Jil Sander embarked in new fashion territory with his fall 2012 menswear line, an almost all-black collection that mixed super-serious leather garments with elements of whimsy, such as dinosaur and whale graphics. But the standout piece was an unexpected accessory: a lunch bag. Leave it to Simons to take two seemingly uncool things — a man purse (insert a Friends punch line here) and the act of brown bagging it — and make it this season's men's must-have.

We have seen quite a few businessmen toting greasy brown bags to work after a stop at the bodega, but they’ve never looked quite this good before. Perhaps because Simons gave this school-day staple a makeover in black leather as well as the classic brown paper (made with ultra-durable, reinforced material). Or maybe it’s because the designer paired them with flawless suits and trenches — definitely not apparel we’ve seen on any playground.

So, will this trend be as disposable as its brown paper inspiration? If the success of Jil Sander’s made-over market tote bags is any indicator, then guys (and the girls that shop for them) are sure to catch onto this new look.

Text Kara Solarz
Image and Source New York Times Style

Fit to Print

The eighties had their power suits (thanks, Jil Sander) and the aughts had the ever-ubiquitous tuxedo jacket. But now, the blazer is making the transition from a traditional menswear-inspired piece to a decidedly ladylike wardrobe staple. The printed blazer, seen on the spring 2012 and resort 2012 runways, is sure to be this season’s knockout piece. This trend has taken shape in bold, graphic designs, like the ornately patterned blazer from Balmain’s resort 2012 line  — 25-year-old head designer Olivier Rousteing even sent out a beaded, gold chain–trimmed evening jacket that put the basic black blazer to shame. Jil Sander, of course, took a turn at punching up the working-woman look in the plaid and paisley two-button blazers in her spring 2012 collection. Our favorite, however, is the feminine florals featured in Celine’s resort 2012 collection, like the Laura Ashley–inspired jacket.

While this garden-party perfect piece is a shoe-in for spring, there’s no reason for you to wait it out through winter. Pair these bright blazers with neutral pieces, like an all-black ensemble or a pale winter dress. And, if the aforementioned high fashion selections just look like a wearable rent check to you, fear not. Hit Top Shop for affordable variations on the printed blazer look, like this unstructured co-ord oil feather jacket, or try the trend in toile, like this scenic ASOS blazer.

Text Kara Solarz
Images Style and Vogue

Veiled Enthusiasm

Mourning the loss of the Marc Jacobs collection? Instead of opting for a classic, all-black ensemble, consider showing your sorrow with a modern-day veil. This ladylike look, which the New York Times notes as "usually reserved for religious ceremonies, goth brides and Daphne Guinness," is sure to be a top trend this spring. Perhaps a slightly more subtle answer to the Royal Wedding’s famous fastener hats, veils may become a street-style sensation faster than you can say “fedora.”

But, before you go out and buy a Lady Gaga-esque full-face net, take a look at Stephen Jones’s fifties-style veiled beanies for Jil Sander for inspiration (pictured above in blue)—they're much more “sight to be seen” than “beekeeper.” This cap, which was shown in several colors on the Milan runway, will actually be produced and sold in stores next spring. Can’t wait that long? We won’t judge if you decide to swing by a bridal store.

Text Kara Solarz
Image Glamour
Source New York Times

Jil Sander Makes a Clean and Artful Debut

Raf Simons designs for Jil Sanders for the last few seasons have not failed to produce stunner after stunner, and likewise, a solid fan base with it. Simon kept with the minimalist signature of the fashion house, but brought to it a solidly modernist spin. The goal this season was to take one piece that could be considered a classic for the line -- a minimalist white cotton shirt -- and then recreate it, and it's subsequent line, from that. Not totally a new idea in itself, but it definitely took a refined approach to the rest of the line, and is a clear theme from some of his previous work (i.e. the crisp white short sleeve shirts with neon floor length skirts).

This season showed clean, cropped, Grace Kelly-esque lines with subtle blues. Even the patterns that debuted (Gingham and paisley) were kept both modern and simply in a masterful way. By the end of the show Picasso images began gracing the sweaters that topped below knee length skirts, giving the line a whimsical pop!

Text Corinna Fabre

Image Jil Sander

Designing Down: Everyone's Doing It

Both H&M and Target have recruited famous designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Alexander McQueen, Siegerson Morrison and the like but now Japanese budget fashion chain, Uniqlo, is getting into the mix. Jil Sander, the German designer famous for her minimalist designs, will be first up to craft a collection for the store.

Doing well in a less than ideal retail climate, Uniqlo will offer a Fall/Winter collection from Sander that will stay in line with their famous $30 jeans and $15 parkas.

Sounds like a smart business model. With stores like Saks and Barney's struggling to sell top labels, it only makes sense to let the masses finally get their hands on some affordable garments.

Even though it's barely Spring, we're looking forward to next season!